Pool by Two: Three Half-Day Lycian Way Walks from Hisarönü
Photo: Lycian Way footpath Turkey red white trail marker rocky coastal trail pine trees, via www.printablee.com
The Lycian Way has a certain reputation. Mention it in a Hisarönü bar and someone will tell you about a friend of a friend who did the whole 500-odd kilometres in one go, wild camped on a clifftop and came home three kilos lighter. This is off-putting in exactly the same way as hearing about someone's marathon does when your own ambition extends to a brisk lap of the complex.
Here's the thing nobody mentions: the trail runs through the hills directly behind the resort, and some of the finest bits are barely two hours' walking. You don't need to commit to anything. You need trainers, water, an early alarm and a rough idea of where the dolmuş stops. Below are three sections that work as half-day outings from a Hisarönü base — each different in character, each finished in time for a late lunch.
First, the practical bit
The route is waymarked with red and white paint splashes on rocks and posts. Two dabs, you're going the right way. A red cross means you've wandered off — turn round, no shame. Paint fades and goats are unbothered by signage, so back it up with a phone map. Download the offline version before you leave the hotel; coverage in the valleys is patchy at best.
Carry more water than feels sensible. Two litres each in summer, minimum. Sun cream is not optional even in October. And on footwear: the limestone here is loose, rolling rubble that has quietly humbled many a confident walker. Proper trainers or light walking shoes with actual tread — not fashion trainers, not flip-flops, and not the brand-new boots you're breaking in on holiday. Ankle support helps on the descents.
Start early. In July and August, 7am is not heroic, it's just sensible; by 11 the exposed sections turn into a griddle. May, June, September and October are kinder, though the sun still means business in the middle of the day.
Taster one: Kayaköy to Ölüdeniz, the civilised one
The easiest sell for a first timer. You take a dolmuş up to the abandoned village at Kayaköy — worth an hour of wandering in its own right, all roofless stone chapels and fig trees growing through windows — then pick up the trail heading downhill towards Ölüdeniz.
Roughly two to three hours of walking, and the bulk of it is descent through pine. There's genuine shade here for long stretches, which in high summer is worth more than any view. The path drops through woodland, pops out at a couple of viewpoints over the blue lagoon, and spits you out on the main road into Ölüdeniz where cold drinks and a dolmuş back to Hisarönü await.
Pick this if you want a proper walk with the least possible admin and no need for a taxi at either end. It's also the one to choose if you're walking with someone who has already announced they'd rather be by the pool.
Taster two: Faralya to Kabak, the postcard one
This is the stretch you've seen on Instagram without knowing it — the path traversing the clifftop above Butterfly Valley, with that impossible sheer drop to your left and the sea a colour that looks digitally enhanced.
It's shorter than the Kayaköy leg in distance, but it is not easier. The trail climbs steeply out of Faralya, the ground is rough, and shade is a rare luxury. Treat it as a proper three hours with rest stops, and do not attempt it at midday in August unless you enjoy being basted.
Get a taxi from Hisarönü up to Faralya (Uzunyurt) early, walk through to Kabak, then take a dolmuş back along the coast road. Budget for the taxi as a treat rather than a disaster — split between two or three people it's modest.
Pick this if you want the photographs, you're comfortable with exposure and uneven ground, and you've got decent knees. Skip it if anyone in the group is uneasy with heights; there are honest, unfenced drops and the path is narrow in places.
Taster three: The doorstep leg above Ovacık
The least famous option, and the one most people ignore. From the upper edges of Hisarönü and Ovacık you can pick up the trail without any transport at all — walk out of your accommodation, follow the lanes uphill, and join the waymarked path as it contours through scrub and pine towards Kayaköy.
Do an out-and-back of an hour in each direction and you'll get wild oregano underfoot, glimpses of the bay through the trees, and almost certainly no one else. It's the ideal option for a first tentative taste: no timetables, no taxi, and you can turn round whenever the mood or the temperature changes. Wear something you don't mind getting dusty.
Pick this if you want to test the water, you're walking with children who'll get bored after ninety minutes, or you fancy a morning leg-stretch before committing the rest of the day to doing very little.
Which one, then?
If you only do one, do Kayaköy to Ölüdeniz. It's the best value for effort, it's shaded, the logistics are trivial, and the finish line has ice cream. If you've walked it before and want the drama, take the Faralya leg. And if you're not sure the Lycian Way is your sort of thing at all, start with the doorstep loop above Ovacık — quietly, cheaply, and without telling anyone you're a hiker.
One last thing. Don't plan a big evening out the night before. The trail isn't going anywhere, but your enthusiasm at 6:45am is a fragile thing, and the pool will still be there at two.